Fordington in Dorchester has remained largely unchanged since the local author Thomas Hardy encapsulated its charm, describing the “intra-mural squeeze” of its narrow paths and thatched cottages with their eaves “thrust against the church tower.” Today, the focal point of this picturesque locale is Bean on the Green, a café with a vintage vibe, where tables spill onto the sloping green, accompanied by a board promoting local Pilates classes, oat lattes, and afternoon teas. Yet, the essence of this serene area, once navigated by a man named Bernard Sheppard in December 1944, remains intact as he prepared to board a steam train bound for Penzance and an important meeting with my grandmother, Virginia.

Since the introduction of genetic ancestry testing kits by 23andMe in the UK in 2014, approximately five million Britons have explored their ancestral roots. Many individuals have encountered unexpected revelations regarding their parentage, commonly referred to as “non-paternity events” or NPEs. The International Society of Genetic Genealogy estimates that about 1-2 percent of present-day Britons discover they have an unexpected father, with this figure increasing to around 10 percent when examining their grandfathers.

Travel companies specializing in ancestry tours, such as Ancestral Footsteps, founded by former BBC genealogist Sue Hills, as well as Ireland’s Roots Revealed and Kensington Tours, are now catering to these genealogical interests. Utilizing clients’ DNA insights, they provide bespoke “roots tours” that allow individuals to trace their ancestors’ lives. Activities may include visiting a family member’s favorite pub, exploring graveyards where relatives are interred, or inspecting homes once occupied by their forebears. These excursions can be undertaken independently or with a knowledgeable genealogist.

My personal quest began in 2019 at the age of 42 when I reached out to Ancestry DNA for a heritage test. Shortly after submitting my sample, I was contacted by Kevin, a man in his sixties from Texas, who suggested that we might share a close genetic bond. A subsequent email from Beverly, a 69-year-old in Rye, further piqued my interest. Beverly, who had been adopted in Dorchester in 1955, suspected that I might be her close relative, potentially her first cousin or half-niece. “I wonder if the family knows about me…” she wrote, filled with curiosity.

This initiated my journey to uncover the truth about my family’s history, revealing that my grandfather was not the mild-mannered butcher from Birmingham I had always thought. Instead, he was a brewery worker from Dorset with at least ten children, including my father Ken and Beverly. Ultimately, as we pieced together the details of our shared history, Kevin, a nephew of Bernard, provided insight: “Bernard was charming, but I’m afraid he was known to be a rogue.”

With guidance from genealogists at AncestryPro, I began planning a visit to Bernard’s hometown of Dorchester. The town has preserved various aspects of its historic charm, from the grassy surroundings of the ancient Roman amphitheater at Maumbury Rings, where I enjoyed a jog at dawn, to the majestic Georgian townhouses lining the High Street, many retaining their Victorian nomenclature. The Eldridge Pope brewery site, where census records indicated Bernard worked as a cashier in 1939, has transformed into a vibrant area called Brewery Square, featuring a modern restaurant and shopping district.

Simon Pearce, a genealogist from Ancestry.co.uk, highlights the UK’s rich resources for those on a DNA discovery journey. He notes the abundance of places to visit, including cemeteries, churches linked to ancestors, and historical residences that still stand. He also expresses that my story, while unique, fits a common pattern seen in many families traced back to the Second World War. International turmoil led to numerous life-changing decisions, reflected in the increase in unexpected parenting events during that era.

The next morning, I explored the Victorian Borough Gardens, where brass bands played lively music from the ornate bandstand during Bernard’s time. I continued my tour at the Shire Hall Museum, showcasing a historic courtroom and jail that housed many individuals, including the famed Tolpuddle Martyrs, serving as a stark reminder of the challenging lives people led in the past.

Back at the King’s Arms, the venue where wagon wheels once echoed through its gates, I savored a meal of crispy fish from the Dorset coast, reminiscent of what Bernard might have enjoyed in his youth, albeit enhanced by modern flavors. As my visit drew to a close, I reflected on how my exploration provided clarity regarding Virginia and Bernard’s meeting, illuminated by local records tracing Bernard’s maritime family connections near Virginia’s home in Pendeen. While I may never fully unravel the story behind their union, this expedition has deepened my understanding of my family’s history, leaving me with a sense of appreciation for the vibrant, modern world in which we live. To you, Grandad, the charming rogue.